Moab, Utah: 4 Awesome Places Outside the Parks
Desert nights under the stars are where a lot of memories happen.
Since Spring has finally sprung that can only mean one thing for us mountain dwellers: it’s time to head to the desert. After months of cold weather and short days, those who live in Colorado (where I lived full time for the last 8 years and part time now) we tend to retreat down the mountain slopes to the west and into the land of red and orange rock around Moab, where my very white skin can be used to signal a rescue helicopter should need be.
Rappelling down the Morning Glory Natural Bridge.
There’s nothing better than seeing I-70 slowly flow down and into the desert as you pass the “Welcome to Utah” sign. Instead of being surrounded by mountain peaks you’re engulfed with endless mesas and steep canyon walls. Sure, the La Sals are jetting up to the south but those are the only mountains you can see. But they don’t detract from the desert scene, no they just enhance it. As you’re hiking around in the desert on a hot day and you look up and see the snowcapped peaks of Mount Peal and Mount Tukuhnikivatz reminding you that if you look hard enough you can still find water (however always go out with way more than you need, at least a quart an hour while hiking).
I’m sure when most of you hear of Moab you think of Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Which you absolutely should as they are incredible and you really should go if you’ve never been. If you’re like me though and enjoy getting away from the crowds than this post is for you. Here are 4 of my favorite lesser known spots around Moab.
Fisher Towers glowing at sunset.
Fisher Towers
The mornings can be quite moody.
If you’re driving from Colorado this is a hard place to miss because the route down Highway 128 from I-70 takes you right past them and a stop is definitely worth it. Cut away in the sandstone these towers create a western scene that you thought was pulled straight from the movies... or the intro to West World.
The towers formed by the slow breakdown of the large fins that jet out from the attached mesa. The largest being “Titan Tower” that stands at 700 feet tall and is the tallest free standing tower in the US. There are some beautiful hiking trails that wrap around and along the base of the towers that give you breathtaking vistas of not just the towers but of the whole valley that is carved out by the Colorado river.
The sense of scale and size that you get standing at the bottom of one of these towers is one that will leave you feeling small in the best way. You’ll most likely see a few climbers making their way up some of the towers. I wish I could tell you which routes to do but I haven’t gotten into climbing... yet.
You definitely want to stick around this area for sunset. As the sun starts its journey to the other side of the world for the night the towers red rock glows as if it’s on fire! The whole place just lights up in a deep orange glow.
Pull off options abound on this drive, and they are all worth it.
Onion Creek
Hiking further back in Onion Creek has some amazing rock features.
If you’re ready to get the tires dirty then Onion Creek is for you. The turn off for Onion Creek is just a little further south of Fisher Towers. This dirt road takes you up through a gorgeous canyon for 8 miles before you reach some ranch land. Keep going, and you can do the whole loop that brings you back down through Castle Valley and back onto Highway 128.
In those first 8 miles however, you will be crossing Onion Creek, staring down steep ledges, looking at crazy canyon walls, and can even pull over and do some amazing hikes. You can hike the “Narrows” section which is right near the bridge you’ll have to cross. You will find some pull offs and you can easily just climb down into the creek bed and start hiking. It’s very flat and your feet will get wet but it is a great stroll on a hot desert day.
This drive also might be a geologist's dream. As you’re driving down this very orange and red road, the last couple miles all of the sudden turn to shades of grey and purples and other tones that don’t quite make sense but are equally as mesmerizing.
About midway through the canyon you’ll come to a pull off where you can take a drainage on the left and side of the road (38°42'22.0"N 109°18'12.4"W). This wonderful hike again follows up the creek bed with the walls slowly growing taller as you hike up. You’ll come to a beautiful bench that cascades down in small steps.
You can choose to either turn around here or continue by climbing up a fallen boulder and explore a couple of side forks of the canyon. I suggest continuing as you get to see the backside of The Titan if you travel up the next fork on the left! This hike is definitely fun and family friendly while also giving you a little sense of adventure.
Coming to the 2nd rappel in Medieval Chamber.
Sand Flats Recreation Area
A lovely little chamber to shimmy on down.
If you want some real off roading this area is for you. With miles and miles of mountain bike trails but also 40 miles of roads for dirt biking, 4x4ing and other off-road vehicles, this place can get your adrenaline pumping. If you prefer to get around on your own two feet there’s some of that out here too.
If you’re looking to get into canyoneering there is a fantastic canyon here to sink your teeth into. Whatever you do, make sure you go with either a guide or someone who knows what they are doing. Do not go without an experienced person in your group, as it is inherently dangerous and you can seriously injure yourself or even die.
The canyon is called Medieval Chamber and it is an awesome intro canyon. To get to the canyon you hike among the forming fins until you reach the first repel which is a 90 foot multi stage repel into a little chamber. Once you walk out of the chmber you enter a very large open area where the walls shoot straight up and you turn to the left where the world seems to fall off in front of you!
This is where you find the second repel where you toss your rope down a crack between the rock wall and an arch called Morning Glory Arch! There’s another way you can get down though, by throwing a rope down either side of the arch and doing a simultaneous repel with someone else who acts as your counter weight and anchor (this was the route I chose).
Once you get to the bottom take a minute to enjoy the little piece of desert you’re standing in before you start your hike out. The giant arch standing above you, the rock walls on either side stretching towards the sky. I can hardly think of a better spot to spend an afternoon.
On the hike out you are treated to one of the most beautiful desert landscapes around through Grandstaff Canyon. Beneath the large canyon walls that surround the canyon is a gorgeous desert oasis with all sorts of flora and large cottonwoods shading the way back to the Trailhead. With a stream gently flowing down towards the Colorado River, it’s no wonder that this place is more green than orange! This hike alone is worth doing and can be accessed from the Grandstaff Canyon trailhead just off Highway 128 outside of Moab.
Picture Frame Arch making a lovely night time frame.
Balcony and Picture Frame Arch
Located 18 miles south of Moab, Balcony and Picture Frame arches are very unique and a great spot to call basecamp. In the middle of the desert stands this big rock formation that seems to spring up out of nowhere. With expansive views and 4x4 roads going off in every direction this area is ripe for adventure!
As you pull up, you’ll see Balcony Arch first, perched high above the sandy desert floor. There’s ample area to camp just below the arch if you chose, or you can keep going around to the backside where there is even more space. Take your time and explore the entire rock formation, on the backside you’ll find Picture Frame Arch which is an incredible place to watch the stars.
Once you brave the slick rock crossing to get up into the "Frame” of the arch, you’ll find a gorgeous little “room” with a sky light and the arch as your door. Lay down, look up, and just take it all in. This is one of the deserts true splendors, a hand crafted room by mother nature.
I have only scratched the surface of this particular part of the Moab region and can’t wait to go back and explore even more.
Miles of expansive rock and canyons laying out in front of us as a storm rolls in.
The desert is such an incredible and soulful place. A place where you can find adventure around every turn. A place where long after your home you’ll still be finding sand in every nook and cranny of your car and probably other places. But most of all, it’s a place where you can get lost. Who knows, maybe in getting lost out there you’ll end up finding yourself.
