Trip Report: Eagle Lake
Summer is in full swing here in the mountains of Colorado (finally). It’s taken its sweet time but the days are long and warm. However, it feels a little weird this year. Because of the amount of late snow we’ve received this year most of the high mountain trails that I would normally explore are still frozen over and it’s made it a little bit tricky to try and plan trips.
This last week my friends Pat, Ryan and Ryan's lovely Alaskan Malamute Rocky, wanted to go backpacking and asked if I wanted to go along. Of course I did, that’s a no brainer! The only problem? Figuring out where we could actually go where we wouldn’t be stuck in a snowy, muddy, cold mess. The first suggestion was a place called Nolan Lake. I highly doubted that Nolan Lake would be very accessible as I knew those mountains still had a lot of snow on them, but we decided to give it a try anyway.
As we drove to the trailhead, slowly climbing higher and higher as we switch backed through aspen groves, the air started to get cooler and cooler. The first signs of a cold, long winter started to appear on the side of the road. By the time we got to the trailhead we could see there was already quite a bit of snow. Not only that, but the air was really cold. We decided to go to our back up plan, Eagle Lake.
Eagle Lake sits on the backside of a mountain range that gets a bit more sun, and it is a bit lower in elevation. Our thinking was that even if there’s snow at this lake, it’s a shorter, less intense hike and we can car camp in that area if we can’t access the lake.
As we made our way down the hillside and back towards the turn off towards Eagle Lake, there was a sense of angst in the air. Would we actually get to backpack? Or are we going to have to wait even longer? Turning up the valley that heads towards our new destination, we could feel the air getting much, much warmer than it had been. It was noticeable even while just driving down the road with the windows down.
Once we got to the trailhead, we all made sure to stretch (I don’t need to throw my back out again anytime soon) before hitting the trail. As we started up the dirt trail to our destination the meadow soon gave way to one of the most lush and vibrant aspen groves I’ve ever seen. With trees so close and a full canopy, the light filtered through the rustling green leaves and gave the grove a beautiful soft glow.
As we were passing through the heart of the grove we had to stop for a moment, not because of the beauty, but because Pat rolled his ankle. If he couldn’t continue, it wouldn’t be that bad as the car camping in the area is amazing and we weren’t that far in. Pat stood up, put some weight on his ankle, and decided he was alright to continue.
After a mile and a half we exited the grove and approached a river crossing, we could see the bridge we had to cross had been recently damaged by the high water. A giant log appeared to have ran right into it, or possibly even over it while the water was higher. We checked the bridge out and as we were assessing it, Rocky, just walked on across. If that big dog could make it across, we could too.
Once we crossed the stream, it was all uphill from there to the lake. The trail switchbacks up through the forests following Lime Creek as it cascades down from Eagle Lake. The water was absolutely ripping! Standing above the creek you could feel the raw power of the water raging below. The mist slowly rising up and blanketing the trees with small water droplets.
As we finished the climb up the trail, we could see Eagle Lake through the trees. Walking up to the shoreline we took in the view and started scouring the landscape for our ideal camp site. We found it across the lake, the only issue was getting there. Eagle lake is the first in a series of lakes that Lime Creek flows through. We were on the wrong side of Lime Creek on both sides of the lake. At the base of the lake where it drains, where you would normally just walk was under feet of water. We decided to go up the shoreline and see if there was a better option at the head of the lake.
Halfway between the creek crossings we came to a massive scree field with boulders as large as a VW bus just casually sunbathing along the shore. It took us a while to slowly and carefully make our way across the rocks only to find that the creek was raging just as hard as at the exit of the lake. We hiked up a little way and found an area that flattened out a bit to cross, but not before both Ryan and Pat fell face first into the stream. I chose a different route as if I fell face first, I would be out a camera and lens.
After crossing the streams we found a trail and walked down it meandering through the trees before a flash of light caught my eye to the left. I turned and peered through the trees and there it was, the lake. I said to Pat and Ryan I thought we were there and we crossed through the brush to a clearing and there it was. Our home for the night. An open area just above the lake, with sporadic trees offering us shade and sturdy posts for our hammocks. We quickly took our packs off and began laying our claims to where we would sleep. Ryan setting up his tent on a flat spot by the fire ring, Pat and I sharing a tree and setting our hammocks just past Ryan.
The sun was at the highest point in the day when we finished setting up camp. As it was beating down on us, we made our way around the lakeshore where a large hill of slick rock crashed straight into the lake making it a good spot to jump in. Though the sun was high in the sky, some clouds had rolled in and caused the temperature to drop. Sitting there, I heard Pat and Ryan talking about maybe jumping in the lake if the sun would just stay out.
I wanted to get a photo of someone jumping in, and I knew that if I went in first, they would both feel obligated to join. As I stood up and got ready to take the plunge, I looked over and saw that familiar expression, that look I know I’ve given to Pat a million times. The look of “I really don’t want to do this but if you do it, I have no choice.” I turned back towards the lake and took a deep breath, this wasn’t going to be fun.
As I jumped in and broke the glassy surface of the water it felt like a million needles all over my body. The water was absolutely freezing! I don’t know if I’ve ever jumped into colder water, where the air literally gets sucked out of you. As my head came above the surface, I gasped for air, not because I was drowning but because of the shock of the icy water. I couldn’t help but think to myself as I frantically swam back to shore, “I immediately regret this decision.”
I crawled out of the water feeling like a tightly bound book, my skin and muscles all feeling stiff as I rigidly crawled out and laid down on the warm rock. Glancing over at Ryan and Pat, seeing their faces I knew it had worked, the expletives uttered my way confirmed that. Slowly as I thawed out, my muscles began to relax and feeling even better than before, natures cold bath was at work. Once I could feel my fingers, I snapped some photos as Ryan and Pat both jumped in while Rocky looked on quietly judging us.
A few minutes had gone by and we decided it was round 2. We walked around a little bit to see if there were any cooler spots to jump in at. Ryan found a spot, I found my spot I wanted to shoot from, and then in he went. I snapped some photos and started walking down the rock as Ryan clamored out of the water. I looked down saw Rocky laying on the rock looking at Ryan, that’s when I said “ah crap.” Ryan looked at me and asked me what was the matter, I told him that from where Rocky was laying, would have been the cooler shot with him in the photo. As soon as those words came out of my mouth Ryan said “Ok” and walked back over to his perch to jump back in.
Chances are if you go on an adventure with me I’m going to ask you to do something or stand somewhere, sometimes you may not like it. But to have a friend, without me asking, just turn around and say, “lets do this” is pretty amazing. Ryan, thanks for being so willing to freeze your bits off. The picture was worth it.
As we warmed up on the rock, we could feel our aches and pains from the hike in slowly melt away. Our cold plunge into the lake acted as a cold bath helping with our recovery. The best part is we didn’t even need a gym membership for access. Once we felt like we could move after laying down under the summer sun for a few minutes, letting the day slowly pass by, we decided to head back to camp.
Once we got back, I asked Pat to sit in his hammock for a couple of pictures (for an upcoming post I’m writing about hammock camping, stay tuned!) and before I knew it, he was out cold. The more I thought about it, the heavier my own eyelids started to feel. As I got in my hammock, my head leaned back, my eyes closed, and I was out.
Waking up feeling refreshed, we gathered some wood for a fire before the light started to fade. As I looked around for wood the mountain tops began to glow in the sun. As I looked out over the lake, I noticed one small tree that was growing on a rock in the middle of the lake, it had started to glow in the afternoon light against the dark forest. Just a lone tree, on a rock, in the middle of a lake. Neature at its finest.
The sun had drifted behind some clouds, but it looked as if it might pop back out right around sunset. I told Pat to go sit on this point that crept out into the lake. I had a feeling if he sat there long enough, the sun would pop back out and set the whole scene a glow. I’m sure as Pat was sitting there being nibbled on by bugs he was questioning how we’ve been friends for so long. Then the sun popped out and everything turned warm and started to glow with this brilliant golden light. It was when Pat then waved us over to come check it out from where he was that I assume he answered his own questions about our friendship.
As the hues changed from oranges and yellows to pinks and purples then into blues, I was running back and forth between camp and the slick rock where we had jumped in. The sun setting one direction, and the peaks lighting up in the other. It was a beautiful problem to have, not knowing where to point my lens.
The blues took over the sky as we enjoyed dinner around the fire. I put my camera away and just enjoyed being where we were. The peaks were high in the sky, blocking the Milky Way, which allowed for me to actually relax while being outside. To just be.
We sipped whiskey, shared stories and planned future adventures. Reminding me of the whole reason I got into the outdoors in the first place: to be present with those I’m with. Sometimes I can get so caught up in trying to capture a place or a moment, I forget to actually enjoy that moment for myself. Being outdoors with people is the best way to grow a friendship and strengthen existing ones. You put down your phone (or camera in my case) and you pick up your head to those who are in front of you. Instead of giving someone a like, you give them a high five. Instead of jumping into a pointless debate on Facebook, you jump into a freezing cold alpine lake.
As the embers died down (and we then doused them with water) we retreated to our hammocks and tent. Within minutes of crawling into my hammock I hear Pat rustling around in his hammock and then say “I think that’s lightening.” I sat up and looked out into the dark and there it was. Lightening. We sat and watched it for a few minutes before we realized it was heading our way. I said it was no big deal as we had our rainflies, except I was the only one with a rainfly. We set mine up as a precaution thinking there would be no way it would actually rain on us.
The storm slowly moved toward us while I was trying to get a few photos, something inside was saying to stop. Maybe it was the aluminum tripod I was holding in my hand as lightening was advancing. As soon as I put my camera away and got into my hammock the rain started. The sound on my fly got louder and louder and then Pat rolled in. Without a fly or a bug net, he was getting poured on.
Good thing I brought my double hammock, because as the rain fell, we got to cuddle up in the hammock together. After a little over an hour, the rain stopped and Pat got out to realize his hammock and pad were soaked. So instead of enduring a night in a wet hammock, Pat flipped over his pad and slid it under my hammock. I couldn’t help but chuckle a little bit, I love Pat, but every time we go backpacking, he tries to hammock camp without a fly and weather rolls in. I guess his punishment this time was having to sleep under me, and we had red beans and rice for dinner.
We woke up to clear skies and the birds singing. After having some coffee and breakfast (and laughing at Pat sleeping under my hammock), we broke down camp started our hike down. We decided the day before that we were going to cross at the drainage instead of walking across the scree field again. After looking for alternative routes, we settled on the spot we had turned away from the day before.
There were two options for getting across. The first was to walk through the deep pool that had formed. There were some large rocks that were placed fairly evenly apart that would allow for us to walk across and not get chest deep. The other option was to walk across a log jam that had formed in trees where the water starts to drop down quickly.
Ryan started to go across the log jam with Rocky and the more I watched him work his way, the more uncomfortable I was getting thinking of doing it myself. I watched Pat move through the pool while Ryan walked across the logs. Pat only get in about mid-thigh deep water which made me feel a bit more comfortable about going that route with my gear.
I apparently chose a different route as the water came up to my waist. There was a couple of points where I got a little nervous as I could feel the water moving a lot more quickly than I expected, and as I took a step, I could feel the water pushing my feet. The last thing I wanted to do was go feet up in the water with all of my lenses, camera, and one of Ryan’s lenses. I slowly made my way across, breathing heavily with each step, I let out a sigh of relief when I pulled myself out of the water. The gear was safe.
We quickly made our way down the trail and back into the aspen grove, each step bringing us closer to the truck and the end of a good trip. Coming out of the grove and back into the meadow, the flowers were out and congratulating us all the way back to the trailhead. The truck was as we left it, alone at the trailhead. Pat followed Rocky into Lime Creek for one final cold soak before the drive back to civilization. We exchanged high fives, got in the truck and bumped down the dirt road, the first mountain backpacking trip for the summer in the books.