Trip Report: The San Juan Mountains

As the Fourth of July was edging closer with each passing day, my roommate and adventure planning friend Peter, said we need to do something cool because he had a 4-day weekend and wanted to get out of town. We had talked about a few possible locations, maybe going to Dinosaur National Monument, maybe go to the Wind River Range in Wyoming. That was until Peter started feeling a little ill.

As the dates were approaching, Peter was still recovering so it made more sense to do something a little less extreme but equally as amazing. Our eyes shifted towards the southwest region of Colorado: Telluride and the San Juan Mountains. The San Juan’s are absolutely stunning. Rugged and raw, these mountains extend for 150 miles from Ouray, Colorado down into New Mexico. I’d only been down in that area once before, and was very excited to go back.

Peter nailing the campsite finding once again.

Peter nailing the campsite finding once again.

Once we decided where we were going, Peter got to work trying to find a place to camp via Google Earth. If there is one thing that Peter does better than anyone I know, it’s finding a place to camp. I have camped in some of the most beautiful and awe-inspiring places because Peter has spent hours and hours on Google Earth scouring every inch of an area.

The plan was to leave on the 5th, this way Lauren and our buddy Mike could join us when they were done with work. We enjoyed the Fourth at our place, BBQing and hanging out in the warm July sun. We made a beer can chicken and could see the fireworks off in the distance showering light over downtown Gypsum.

The next morning after Lauren left for work, Peter and I loaded up his Xterra and hit the road. We decided to take the scenic route over McClure Pass, which was a little longer but totally worth it. The road follows the Elk Range south through the mountains. Peaks rising up all around with massive cliff bands and beautiful snow-covered peaks. The slower road is often time the better road.

As we approached Olathe, Colorado the San Juan Mountains where coming into view on the horizon. We were still about 40 miles away and the peaks were already dominating the horizon, man I missed this area. We stopped to fuel up in the town of Ridgeway, which is located at the base of the Sneffels Wilderness area that would be our home for the next few days.

The mountain peaks can be seen from a distance, but up close and personal is the best way to enjoy them.

Driving down the highway with Whitehouse Mountain and Mount Sneffels on our left, I was already feeling a sense of accomplishment. Coming back to a place I had vowed to come back to, and actually doing it. Sometimes we get so caught up in finding new places we forget the places we’ve been and how they made us feel. I firmly believe that you really can’t appreciate a place until you’ve gone back. We get so awestruck the first time that we let that fog of excitement cloud our focus.

We turned down County Road 9 and I’m pretty sure I let out an audible gasp. The hills and mountains laid out before us was a view Bob Ross would have been proud of. Mount Sneffels standing 14,157’ above sea level, with snow still deep in the couloirs made for quite the picturesque mountain landscape. We stopped a quite few times down this bumpy dirt road to take in the different viewpoints along the way.

Nearing our turn for camp, we came up on a 4Runner in front of us, and then ahead of him it was another 4runner pulling a U-Haul trailer! After following them for a little bit they pulled to the side to let us pass, and to also show us the river we were about to cross. We rolled down our windows and talked to the gentleman pulling the trailer. He told us to go ahead as he wanted to just make sure it wasn’t too deep for the trailer.

We happily obliged. Once we said thanks, Peter hit the gas and kept our speed while charging through the river. As soon as we were through, we turned left up a steep hill which lead us into up to an incredible meadow with Mears Peak towering in the background. We were home.

Looking down the hill the whole meadow was buzzing with life.

With the car parked, we went about setting up camp which didn’t take long. We laid in our hammocks for a minute but both of us were feeling a bit antsy. It would be a few hours before Lauren and Mike showed up and just sitting there seemed to be a complete disservice to the location. Just a few hundred yards down the road from camp was the Dallas Trail which is a 16.7-mile point to point hike that snakes through the Sneffels Wilderness.

Peter had looked at this area when finding our camp spot and saw a hill with a big meadow on it just a mile down the trail. As we hiked to this area we passed through a healthy and vibrant aspen grove that gave way to a dense pine forest. As the forest starts to thin, you walk out of the woods and are looking over a stunning meadow with a creek, a combination of pine and aspens strewn about. To top it off, snowcapped mountain peaks rose up out of the horizon to round out the majestic landscape.

The flowers were popping. And I’ve realized I need more practice shooting wildflowers.

We hiked through the meadow and up the hill on the far side. At the top we found a nice little aspen grove to sit in and take in the view. Watching birds flying, catching thermals and slowly floating upward, and thinking about how peaceful that must be. Oh, to have the view they had. The lupines were in full bloom, blanketing the meadow in beautiful purples and even a little white. It was the type of scene where I half expected to hear cowbells in the distance. Were these the Alps of Colorado perhaps?

After about an hour we decided to head back to camp and wait for Lauren and Mike to show up. As we hung out around camp, I looked around trying to figure out where the stars would be later that night. Using my Photo Pills app (a necessary tool for anyone who wants to shoot the stars) I was able to see that at around midnight the core of the Milky Way would be right over Mears Peak.

Lauren and Mike showed up at about 9:30, which was earlier than we were expecting! Hugs were exchanged and beers handed off as they told us about their drive and we told them about the area. We just sat and chatted as we all waited for the stars to literally align.

As midnight approached, Peter and I got our cameras ready and our locations picked. The Milky Way was extremely crisp and clear on this night. We have been fortunate to have very clear skies this summer, unlike last year where I hardly shot the stars at all because the smoke from the wildfires all across the West Coast blocked out the sky. We started snapping photos, everyone huddled around the screens on the cameras to see what the stars truly look like. The colors of the gasses thousands of light years away across our entire galaxy, all crammed into a 2-inch LCD screen. Technology really is something. Once the stars had moved passed the peak, we all decided to head to bed.

Lauren lighting the way.

The next day as the sun rose, I peered out of my tent and decided my sleeping bag was the better option as there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. We all got up a little while later and packed up for the day's adventures. We were going to go check out some waterfalls that you can rappel down, as long as the flow isn’t crazy, and maybe pop over to Telluride.

Our first stop was Mystic Falls, located in the town of Ames, Colorado. Ames is nestled in a little valley where the Lake Fork and Howard Fork meet to form the South Fork of the San Miguel River. Once you get into town, you drive up a dirt road just passed a power plant, which was the first alternating current power plant in the US! As you pull into the parking lot you can see Lake Creek Falls cascading down. The trail then leads you across a creek and over to Mystic Falls. As beautiful as Lake Creek Falls is, Mystic blows it away.

The water was absolutely raging! We walked down the steep trail to where the water meets the canyon bed and walked up to see the awesome power of the years run off in action. The falls were a solid 150 yards away but we could still feel the mist on our faces. The wind rushing at us as the energy from the falls had nowhere to go but down canyon. As we sat there listening to the roar of the falls, I started to hear a grumble in my stomach. It was time for us to hike back up the steep hill and head into town for some food.

Now, I was pretty excited to head into town as I’d never been to Telluride before, but the entire time I’ve been in Colorado all I’ve heard of how gorgeous this town is. Well, everyone was wrong. Telluride is not beautiful, there’s nothing to see there and you should never go...

Bridal Veil Falls in all its glory.

Ok that’s not entirely accurate. Simply coming into Telluride is a treat in itself. The main street frames Lookout Peak and Ophir Pass, and when we were there the snowmelt was creating a stunning waterfall cascading down the pass. Not only that, but just past those seasonal falls is Bridal Veil Falls. A 365-foot wall of water cascading over a cliff down onto massive boulders below. Walking around the base of these falls I felt like I was back in Oregon. Seeing the water flowing over the boulders as it crossed through a thick pine forest reminded me of being in the Columbia Gorge. Until I turned around and saw 14,000’ peaks behind me, then I remembered where I was.

Once we all had our fill of waterfalls and lunch, we started our journey back towards camp. Yet again, Peter’s planning came in handy. His route back took us off the highway and onto Last Dollar Road. A dirt road that takes you above the airport and over Last Dollar Pass. The views were incredible. Rugged peaks as far as you could see.

The entire summer spectrum was on full display, as the meadows of wildflowers were glowing a summer thunderstorm was building over the mountains. Driving down the dirt road a rainbow was forming in front of the storm as we headed towards camp, welcoming us home and a safe return from our day's adventures. With the storm approaching, we knew it would be better to cross the river sooner than later, just to be safe.

What summer in the mountains is all about.

We got back to camp just in time, as we pulled in the sky opened up! Thunder cracked overhead while we sat on our tailgates and shared stories. The nice thing about these afternoon storms is they help force you to sit still, to enjoy those you’re with. As the rain died down, we started to come out of our little hibernation and put camp back together. The sun was starting to set, and the clouds started to do their color dance. Mike said he wanted to go to the meadow Peter and I had gone to the night before, so of course I happily obliged.

Whiskey while waiting for the storm to pass.

We left in a hurry as we had to race to the meadow before the sunset was over. As we hiked through the forest, the whole place started to glow pink. As we rounded the corner there was a clearing in the trees where as we looked north, we could see the storm that had rolled over us colliding with Courthouse Peak, glowing pink in the last bit of the sunlight. We knew we were cutting it close so we started running down the trail. As we got to the meadow the last of the light was starting to fade, Mike took off in a sprint down the trail, running straight through the stream instead of going down a little bit and hopping over.

Mike catching the last little bit of color from the sunset.

By this time, I knew we were too late and I wasn’t going to make it in time, so I slowly came down the path and made my way about halfway up the hill where I saw Mike sitting on a rock above me. Once he saw me, he came down and we apologized to each other for not making it in time. It was 100% my fault. I didn’t have my gear ready and lollygagged a little too long. I should have been prepared as I know that evening storms are the key ingredient for an amazing sunset. Lesson learned (or reminded).

As we rolled back to camp, Lauren and Peter asked us how it went and we confessed our failure, to which Peter said I told you so. Always the honest friend. As the skies grew darker, we all kept putting off making dinner as we kept getting wrapped up in more important discussions like how cute Missy was sitting in our chair. After a late dinner we all went to bed, I decided to shoot sunrise instead of the stars as I’m someone who needs my sleep.

Is there anything cuter than a dog snuggled up on a camp chair? Also this two person love seat camp chair is amazing.

As the sun started to come up, it was 50/50 whether or not the sunrise would be a good one. As I waited for the sky to erupt, I could see the clouds in the valley over to the north were erupting in color. The clouds over us, not so much. Mear Peak was glowing but behind it was nothing but dark clouds. The juxtaposition of the light against the dark clouds made for a scene I wasn’t expecting, but was just as rewarding as a sky full of glowing clouds.

After the sun rose above the clouds, I decided it would be good to just go back to sleep. Nobody else was stirring, and I didn’t want to wake anyone before they were ready. As everyone slowly crawled out of their tents, we made some coffee and packed up camp and got ready to head home. Our route for the day was to go over Owl Pass and then back over McClure Pass, the way Peter and I had come.

Wasn’t what I had envisioned, it was even better.

We pulled back into Ridgeway to fuel up and get some supplies. As we were about to head out, it was brought to our attention that Peter’s tire was exceptionally flat. Our plan was to go and have pizza in Crested Butte, but given that Peter had a flat tire and there was a pizza place across the street from where we were, we decided to have eat there while Peter and Mike changed out the flat.

Peter holding on tight to his man card.

After replacing the tire and getting our fill of pizza it was up to Owl Pass. If you have the time, you should absolutely take this road. Climbing up the road we got amazing views of the Sneffel Wilderness and the storms rolling over the top of them. As we got close to the top those storms had moved over us, we thought about turning around but pressed on.

Coming down the backside of the pass the road really started getting good. The jagged peaks all around us with giant fin walls towering above the meadows and aspens. I had never experienced anything like this in Colorado, or anywhere for that matter. Peter and I talked about coming back here and doing some scouting for possible canyoning amongst the fins.

As we continued down miles and miles of dirt road rain cells passed over head helping to keep the dust down and the views moody and beautiful. Hitting the pavement again the road just continued to amaze me. From the Curecanti Needle to skirting the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado continued to leave me in awe. Going back over McClure Pass again gave me the chance to see all the little details I missed while Peter and I drove the road a few days earlier. Another wonderful return.

Going to have to come back and explore those cracks…

Coming down McClure Pass a brown bear jumped in front of Lauren and I as it skipped across the road and down the mountainside. We both lost it a little to where a sleeping Missy picked her furry face up to see what was going on looking at us with confused puppy eyes, before she put her head back down to resume her nap.

We had one last stop on our way home: Hayes Creek Falls. A beautiful set of waterfalls that were right along the side of the road. The red rock walls were a beautiful setting to watch the clear cold water run down. We took a few pictures and hung out for a minute. Soaking in the last of the sun before it went behind the mountains.

I had Lauren drive the last leg home and I’m glad I did, as it allowed me to sit there and take in the beautiful sunset as we were driving through Glenwood Canyon. We pulled into the garage and Lauren looked at me and told me this trip was exactly what she needed. I didn’t realize it, but it was exactly what I needed too. Getting out of the car, I got that accomplished feeling again, returning home, coming back, feeling fulfilled.

Time and time again on this trip I was reminded about how rewarding the feeling of “returning” somewhere can be. As we all try and explore new places, cross off our bucket list places, try and be the first in discovering a place we forget about the places we’ve been. The most rewarding adventures are often when we revisit a place, taking in the details we missed before, the subtle nuances that make it special, that made it memorable in the first place. So, the next time you’re itching to go on an adventure, look to see where you’ve already been and go see what you missed the first time.

The final stop before home.

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